2010年7月19日星期一

the Orient CDD00001W0 pocket watch

In a first for Watch Report, today's review is of the Orient CDD00001W0 pocket watch. As in the kind that you wear in your pocket, and have to wind every day. Let's see how they did. First, the specifications:In-house mechanical movement, Orient 48C40, made in Japan, 21 jewels, 21,600 vph.Hacking center seconds (very unusual in a pocket watch).40-hour power reserve with power reserve complication at 9 o'clock.Stainless steel case and sapphire crystals, front and rear.40mm by 11.5mm case, waterproof to 30m (100ft).Stainless steel chain with belt clip included.Please read on for more. Shock-protected movement. (Balance staff and other key jewels have springs on them, unlike vintage movements.) This watch really surprised a lot of people when it appeared, myself included. Orient does very few pocket watches, and has never shipped a handwind-only movement before (given that a pocket watch is determinedly retro, an automatic seems less appropriate). From the looks of the perlage-decorated movement, Orient took one of their better automatics and removed the rotor, reversers, and winding bridge, simplifying a bit to produce the 3/4 plate design seen here. It's a nice looking movement. When you first open the presentation case, a "wow" may well be the first reaction. The face is simply stunning.Updated with modern materials and movement, this is a new take on an old standard. Orient, often quite good at well-balanced and classical designs, has outdone themselves this time. Blued Breguet hands, guilloche dial, applied hour markers, blue minute markers, upright Arabic numerals in a retro font, and the unobtrusive yet very useful power reserve subdial. Look at the hour markers in the close-up: they're pointed cones, and the minute marks are blue. Lovely! Orient has done some upgrades to the classic design that enormously help its practicality. First off, the case is stainless steel: quite durable, and actually water resistant to 30m.